How to Polish Fine Leather Shoes

We are often asked what the best way is to care for and polish leather shoes. There are, of course, many different approaches, and some methods are shaped around specific products.

For some, shoe care becomes something of an art form. While we will not go into that level of detail here, the following steps will help maintain the appearance of your shoes, extend their lifespan, and ensure they continue to perform as intended.

Please note, suede and nubuck require a different approach and are covered separately here.

Calf leather and other full-grain leathers require a little more attention, but will reward this with superior comfort, better appearance and longevity. Like any natural material, leather benefits from being kept clean and properly nourished to prevent it from drying or cracking.

Cleaning

It is advisable to insert wooden shoetrees before beginning, as this helps maintain the shape of the shoe during cleaning. Remove the laces, then use a brush to remove dust and dirt. Attention should be paid to the welt and sole stitching – and old toothbrush can be useful here.

Conditioning

Using a soft cloth, apply a small quantity of neutral shoe cream in circular motions, working it into any creases or areas of wear. This helps to nourish and soften the leather.

Where colour restoration is required, a suitable cream may be used, though care should be taken to match the tone correctly. It is always advisable to test on a small, inconspicuous area first.

Allow the shoes to rest for a few minutes before moving on to polishing.

Polishing

A good quality wax polish will help restore and enhance the finish. Neutral wax may be used where no change in colour is desired, though a coloured polish can be selected to enrich the tone or develop a deeper patina over time.

There is often debate as to whether polish is best applied with a brush or cloth. Both methods are effective, though a soft cloth allows for greater control. Apply in soft circular motions, before buffing with a horsehair brush. A final pass with a clean, dry cloth will produce a refined shine.

Achieving a High Shine “Military Polish”

The traditional “spit and polish” method is often associated with military footwear, though whether such a finish is required is a matter of personal preference.

For those wishing to achieve a higher shine, the process involves applying small amounts of water and polish in successive layers, working them carefully into the leather. This helps to smooth the surface and build a more reflective finish.

Only a small quantity of both water and polish is required, applied with patience. With time, a high-gloss finish can be achieved.

It is worth noting that, at this stage, it is the polish itself being brought to a shine, rather than the leather beneath.

Andrew E. Loake